AHMEDABAD: It was 4.30 am and bone-chilling winds swept across the small pilgrim town nestled on Himalayan heights - Kedarnath. Snowcapped peaks of Kedarnath and Kedar Dome tower in the backdrop, shimmering bluish-silver in the pre-dawn sky.

This description is of May 23 when Kedarnath was yet untouched by the recent cloud burst that changed the face of this Himalayan pilgrimage.

On that day, life close to the ancient Kedarnath temple, began as usual- rather early. By 5 am a huge, serpentine queue had already taken shape. Some devotees had lined up as early as 3 am for darshan of the jyotirlinga which is one of the 'panch kedars' in the Himalayas.

Rhythmic chanting of vedic mantras resounded in the ancient sanctum sanctorum as devotees filed in along with their pandas (priests). Amidst the cacophony of chants, devotees did seem to taste their moment of peace and emerge with smiles of fulfillment and red sandal paste on their foreheads.

Soon the first rays of sun seemed to turn the snowcapped peaks into gold. No signs of rainclouds were visible anywhere in the startlingly blue sky.

Through the day, a steady stream of pilgrims flow into Kedarnath. Some had preferred the traditional way and walked 14 km from Gaurikund to Kedarnath, while others had a choice between a large number of private companies offering helicopter rides, mules, horses and other means of reaching the pilgrim town situated at a height of 3,593 metres (11,760 feet) in Rudraprayag district.

Encroachments washed away by Mandakini

A long chain of stalls run along the main road which offers a steep climb to the temple's stairs. May-June being the peak season for pilgrims, the stall owners too are more than happy to burn the night oil selling prasad, puja stuff and snacks.

Over hot cups of kadak coffee and tea at a rundown little restaurant, some pandas, shopkeepers and restaurateurs of Kedarnath huddle together to talk on their latest trouble - encroachments. "The district administration has been targeting us, threatening to demolish encroachments. Many constructions have come up here illegally. We are at our wits end with their new set of rules and constant meddling. Cost of living has shot up here," lamented a provision shopowner.

Little did they know that all their angry discussions and plans to oppose government high-handedness will be washed away in a matter of moments. When nature unleashed its fury, many of these encroachments of Kedarnath town were washed away.

Now, the ancient temple stands resolute, untouched in utter silence. Scenes of devastation and desolation are strewn all around. Much of these stalls and shops which were abuzz with activity round the clock less than a month ago have been washed away by flash floods or buried under tonnes of earth left behind by the roaring waters of Mandakini.